By Ronan van Rooij
When one arrives in the Gambia one is met with profound hospitality and kindness; earning their nickname of “the smiling coast”. This friendliness is felt daily, as strangers will fight to get your attention so that they can proclaim that “you are welcome”. This is a phrase I hear often, and one that resonates with me, as the individuals I’ve met during my first 7 weeks at IHRDA and in the Gambia have made me feel incredibly welcomed. The warmth and generosity that Gambians show in sharing their culture with newcomers is perhaps best exemplified through one of my favourite mediums: the sharing of a home-cooked meal.
Lamin and Mbaye
One day when I was out for a walk, I ran into Lamin and Mbaye who generously invited me to hang out with them by the beachside. We enjoyed the local fruits, took in the scenery, listened to Gambian music, and a friendship was immediately struck.
Lamin revealed that he loved to cook and that he and Mbaye were good chefs and that they would be delighted to make traditional Gambian cuisine for me. Over the next few days, I was treated to the most delicious Domoda, a rich groundnut stew that is a beloved staple in the Gambia, and Chicken Yassa, a flavourful dish made with chicken simmered in a tangy mustard and onion sauce. The outcome of these meals is always a mouthwatering masterpiece of seasoning and preparation, accompanied with a genuine sense of care emanating from whomever prepared the dish.
At the beginning when we had planned a meal we would meet up and Lamin and Mbaye would have all the ingredients laid out on a table and had purposefully waited for my arrival so they could show me the entire cooking process. My role as observer then turned to participator as Lamin and I would fetch ingredients together and I would become more included in the cooking process for our regularly scheduled meals. I genuinely enjoy the time spent preparing these dishes, as working together on a communal meal that we all share from one bowl fosters a deep sense of connection and togetherness. Chatting with Lamin about life and the Gambia while pounding green peppers, chili, and spring onions in a mortar by the beach has been a highlight of my time in the Gambia.
Tanji Fish Market
One day my work colleagues and I planned an excursion after work to visit the Tanji fish market and it was a fantastic experience. When our vehicle crossed into the village boundary, the unmistakable smell of fish filled the air and it was apparent that fishing was not only a big industry here, but a way of life.
The path to the beach was lined with huts that had doorways with smoke drifting out. A local spotted our curiosity and invited our group into a smoke room. My eyes could barely handle the smoke for more than a few minutes, leaving me with a profound respect for those who smoke fish daily and make classic Gambian dishes like Mbahal possible.
Once we arrived at the beach, we witnessed a fish market in full throttle with droves of boats getting unloaded by runners who would carry the fish directly to the vendor’s tables on the beach. It does not get any more fresh than directly from the ocean and I couldn’t help myself from buying red snapper that we later grilled that evening in a mustard and onion based sauce.
Eid-al-Adha/ Tobaski
I am also incredibly fortunate to have been in the Gambia during Tobaski, where I was invited to take part in the festivities by kind and welcoming hosts. Central to this religious holiday is the ram which is cooked into thirds: one for the family itself, one for friends, and the last third for those who cannot afford it.
It was a day centered on sharing food and quality time as meals were being distributed within the community, and their preparation became a meaningful family activity. The meal began with afra, which is grilled meat, followed by the most delicious white benachin I had tasted so far. Gambians are very proud of their benachin, and rightfully so as this one pot dish provides rice with a depth of flavour that is simply unparalleled and that I hope to replicate once I am back home.
As a newcomer to human rights mechanisms in Africa, my colleagues have been helpful in educating me and welcoming me to their team. I have had the privilege of attending the 83d ordinary session of the African Commission on Human and Peoples’ Rights, and have had access to files on various human rights issues on the African continent, as well as being directly involved in a fact finding mission surrounding statelessness. But I would be lying if I did not include eating homemade Ebe as one of my favourite experiences at the office. Gambians, I love your food and thank you for sharing it with me.