This post balances my vulnerability, cultural reflection, and inspiration during my time in Namibia. Ideal for readers curious about human rights work, solo travel, and personal growth.
Disclaimer – The below post, is my own personal thoughts and reflections during my experience in Southern Africa and the people and places that shaped it. It is important to note that you don’t need to be in Namibia or on the other side of the world to experience culture shock and isolation. People working in Human Rights or travelling in-general can feel isolated and alone whether they go to Toronto or Windhoek.
Opening Reflection
I did not expect loneliness to be my most constant companion at the beginning of my solo travelling adventure in Namibia. However, a few days after I wrapped up my last final of my first year of Law School, I packed my bags and boarded a plane first to Dubai then Cape Town to begin my over three-month journey as a human rights intern in Windhoek, Namibia.
I have travelled around the world before, so I did not expect to become a victim to my own mind. But shortly after travelling from Cape Town to Johannesburg and finally Windhoek, the rose-tinted glasses fell off, and the feelings of loneliness, and anxiety crept in. I want to thank the many family, friends, and mentors I relied on who are familiar with my anxiety and were able to be a steady supporting presence even if only over the phone.
I am not used to being alone, coming from a family of ten and being a twin myself I am not often alone for extended periods of time, nor do I like to be. However, being in Windhoek, having to settle into a routine, in a new city, in a new country, on a new continent, meeting new coworkers and adapting to my surroundings became overwhelming. It was culture shock, something I have never experienced even from my travels to Asia or the South Pacific. Yet, my travels in Southern Africa and Namibia have been unlike anything I have done before.
Namibia is very different from Canada, and the work I am doing here as a Human Rights Intern is different than other jobs I have held. Namibia is a beautiful country, of only a little over 3 Million people that 35 years after its independence from South Africa and the apartheid regime is still fighting systemic issues left from centuries of racial divide and colonial laws and policies. Being Nehiyaw and having worked in the Canadian Government, dealing with these laws and policies was not new to me. However, seeing it from the perspective of a newly independent country has been eye opening.
Every McGill student travelling abroad must do a small international prep course to prepare you for your experience. Reflecting on the course, and the culture shock graph it showed us I realized I was in the steep drop of culture shock. Naturally, I began to wonder how I could get into the next step, the steady rise to comfortability in your new surroundings. I did not know how long this would take and this is when I really began embracing the uncertainty of the adventure I embarked on. With only a few weeks left I can confidently say I am in the plateau where I have a routine and accept and enjoy my experiences in Windhoek. But it was not an easy road to get here.
The Turning Point
Three weeks into my experience, I was NOT having a good time. Work was not busy, as lovely as my coworkers are, it can be difficult to figure out how a random Canadian intern who is only there for three months can help with the offices mission to deliver equitable access to justice for all Namibians and a fair labour regime within the country. Due to my anxiety I began experiencing headaches, sleepless nights and questioning what I was doing here. It felt like there wasn’t a moment where I wasn’t constantly anxious. This is difficult when not only did I want to get the most knowledge possible from this experience, but I wanted to be as effective as possible in advocating for human rights and justice in Namibia. It is safe to say I was more exhausted in those three weeks’ than I was at the end of my 1L finals.
Thankfully, on that Friday as we were about to head into a Namibian long weekend the next week and I was dreading more time alone in my room. My AirBnB hosts flagged me down to play Uno over wine and by the fire with some of their friends. Originally declining, they did not take that as an answer and shortly after I was losing in Uno to their son (Who I dare not mention was in fact cheating!) But apparently that is “African” Uno. It was through this conversation they learned that in the three week’s I was there I had done literally nothing but go to the gym, then work, then home. For three weeks. They were not surprised because of that, I was not enjoying my time in Namibia or as they called it “Sleepy Windhoek”. He then said something I haven’t forgotten.
“Namibia is the most beautiful country in the world! You need to get out and explore, see the beauty of the region, you are not just here to work!”
So…. I did.
The Adventure REALLY Begins
Before discussing my journey ahead I wanted to thank my team that made this possible and encouraged my exploration of the beautiful region they call home. It is not through sitting behind a desk you will truly understand the importance of Human Rights, you need to see it in action and through experience!
That evening I booked a safari at Etosha National Park in Namibia, and travel to Victoria Falls Zimbabwe. For the first time in about five week’s excitement returned to my stomach and I began to prepare for what’s ahead.
Etosha National Park – My first stop! Etosha National Park, here I got to experience a bit more of the luxury side of safari, staying at a Mokuti Lodge with a fantastic restaurant, a spa, and a large swimming pool. This was a nice first experience to safari very low expectations or things needed from me as it was all handled by the lodge. It allowed me to begin processing my anxiety out of the den I created for myself in Windhoek. The new environment was helpful for me to re-frame my thinking about the time I was spending in Namibia and enjoy the time I spent alone.
Coincidently, around this time, gaining perspective and momentum, I began to pick up on how I could be of service at work and to the people around me and began to get more engaged. I realized that as I began opening myself up to experiences, my anxious mind and heart settled and opened, and I naturally began to integrate into the space around me.
Swakopmund & Walvis Bay – Standing on the edge of desert and ocean these beautiful coastal towns are gems within Namibia and encourage a more relaxed beachy lifestyle than the government town that is Windhoek. Many tourists visiting Namibia including a lot of surfers will choose to skip Windhoek entirely and go right to Swakopmund for beautiful coastal scenery and weather. I tried to take up a surfing lesson myself but unfortunately it was not able to happen due to time limitations.
Sossusvlei/Spitzkoppe – Surreal landscapes that made you feel small and whole as you appreciate the beauty of nature in all of its forms. I witnessed how the Nehiyaw teachings I learned as a child were universal, that we as humans were but one deeply connected circle apart of a much grander ecosystem. Seeing life grow in these environments also made me think about my work in Law, and how important human rights is because, like the wild it perseveres even in the harshest environments. Globally, we are all just trying to survive and live each day. That is an accomplishment whether we do it in rural Namibia or downtown Toronto. Like the dead trees of Deadlvei it is easier to give up. So, the work I am doing is for those with the strength to continue living.
Cape Town x2 – I first arrived in Cape Town at the beginning of my trip. It was my first ever city in Africa that I have been to, and I had the opportunity to explore its natural and scenic beauty and surrounding area. I will say, with it being my first and after a lot of travel I enjoyed it but had lukewarm feelings toward it. Cape Town is one of the least culture shock cities in Africa for a Canadian. However, poverty and a racial divide very clearly exist, especially with how only a short ride from the beach houses along Clifton Beach, you see the Cape Flats a primarily African and impoverished community. I was very excited to go back this time with a group of friends I met in Zimbabwe. This time coming back more confident and with a lot of the tourist attractions out of the way, the coastal city of Cape Town, despite all its divides, was welcoming and enjoyable and is currently my favourite city in Africa. Even getting robbed at the Cape Town train station hasn’t shifted my view on this amazing city. More on that soon.
Victoria Falls & Zambia – I knew Victoria Falls was going to be a must see before I even landed in Windhoek. Being, able to connect with old and new friends was a highlight after so many week’s of being alone. It far exceeded my expectations. With just a backpack I boarded a plane and flew to Victoria Falls. I spent a night on the Zimbabwe side and then crossed the land border into Zambia. Every moment was amazing. After seeing the falls that morning, pictured below, with very little convincing from Mads and Omer above our gaggle of McGill Law students spent the night in Livingstone Zambia. After the falls we went on Safari in the back of a Zambian friends pick-up truck, to having a Brai with very friendly and welcoming locals along the banks of the flooded Zambezi river. This was a truly unforgettable experience I recommend to anyone travelling in the region.
Kruger National Park – One of the most popular national parks to go on Safari in Africa, and for a very good reason. It offers a little bit of everything for whatever you are looking for whether that be small rustic camps, to large 5-star resorts.
Joburg x2 – South Africa’s largest city really is a mix of everything. While I didn’t get to spend much time here my time there was interesting, visiting friends, seeing tourist sites, and acknowledging the strong presence of apartheid left over in Joburg today.
My abilities as a solo traveler, and overall independence as a global citizen have greatly improved throughout this adventure. From navigating international borders on foot, or the public transit system in new countries. You learn to grow as an independent person and rely on your instincts to keep you out of trouble.
An Incident in Cape Town
Interestingly, it wasn’t in Joburg or Livingstone where I experienced a typical travelers experience, being robbed. It was in the super safe Cape Town. Which just goes to show, this can happen anywhere in the world! The most important thing is as long as you remain vigilant you should remain safe. And remember that no material object you bring with you is worth serious injury or your life!
It happened at Cape Town station, just after arriving from Kalk Bay. As my friends and I stood close together, trying to order an Uber in the hectic crowd, someone suddenly shoved them aside and yanked my phone from my hand. Before I could react, the thief took off running. I instinctively shouted and moved to chase, but my friend grabbed my arm just in time as seconds later, the thief pepper-sprayed the entire station to cover his escape.
Security quickly intervened and ushered us out, and though visibly frustrated, nearby locals also ran after the thief and expressed genuine anger that this had happened to a visitor. Their kindness was moving as they tried to help however they could, and one even stayed to make sure we were okay. In the end, we took the very Uber I had ordered before the theft. Small silver linings.
After my coworkers asked me “Please don’t let this colour your view of Africa” and I said “No, never” these things can happen in Barcelona, Paris, Toronto, New York not just Africa. Throughout your travels it’s important not to let one bad moment out of hundreds of great moments effect your mindset of the adventure generally.
Human Rights Work Can Be Lonely – And That’s Okay
For those reading this and are interested in Humans Rights work I hope that reading this, you are inspired to try something like this, but are able to learn and be prepared for your experience.
Human Rights work can be very isolating and lonely, large funding disparities means smaller teams and fewer peers to lean on when you need help or are adapting to a new environment. Cross-cultural work also often requires entering communities and being okay with not being immediately integrated within them. Whether it be Indigenous people back home or the Nama and Herero people in Namibia, acceptance is all about keeping an open-mind and communication in the best way you can. Burn out and fatigue are also very common in this space because of new people coming in unprepared and/or alone in spaces without others to lean on. Adapting to a new environment is not easy, but it taught me lessons on acceptance that I am thankful for. The solo experience can often even be more rewarding for what it teaches you about yourself.
Final Reflection: What the Lonely Road Teaches You
In closing, solitude or feelings of anxiety and isolation are not failures! In fact, growing through these experiences can be transformative. It’s an interesting paradox but loneliness led me into a deeper connection with the world around me because it forced me to accept my new surroundings.
“Sometimes, we must first get lost in the world to find our place in it.”
The myth of Sisyphus makes me think of the work that we are doing globally although it may be repetitive and laborious, we can find meaning and even happiness in embracing the struggle by living in the moment.
TIPS FOR READERS
- Always keep your mind open to opportunities to explore where you are on a deeper level than a tourist
- Make friends!
- Get a routine
- Try to say yes more than you say no
- Stop Comparing!
- Have fun!
So, with four week’s left you may be asking. Jordan? With all you have done what’s next? While I have enjoyed my routine in Windhoek, I still have some adventures on the horizon before I leave Namibia and reflect on what I learned during this experience and how it has changed my perspective on Human Rights work, and travel in general. And for those that may have the opportunity to do something like this but have fears or doubts. My advice – Do it! Learn from my mistakes, don’t be afraid to go alone and if you are learn how I managed through it and create your own adventure!